Author: zora

I went all the way to Flushing…

…and I ate a hamburger.

For those of you who don’t live in NYC, this is almost equivalent to eating at McDonald’s in Taipei.

Flushing is New York’s second Chinatown, in some ways now more dynamic than the one in Manhattan. I went out there to do a little on-the-ground research for The Rough Guide to New York City (still catching up on that back work–thank you, generous RG editors), so I was imagining, say, grazing through the Flushing Mall food court, or popping into a Korean joint for some bibimbop, or slurping a bubble tea, or something along those lines.

But after I’d traipsed all over the damn place following the “Flushing Freedom Trail,” which is totally boring and consists of a bunch of old Quaker shingle houses that have nothing to do with Asians of any kind, I was a little addled. And I was walking down Main Street and saw the sign: “Try Our Handmade Fries, NOW ONLY $1!” And there was a gorgeous photo of funky-lookin’, perfectly crispy fries with their peels still on.

I think the poster resonated because I’d just been at the Burget Joint in Le Meridien in midtown, which is a fantastic place but serves those ho-hum standard Simplot fries. I’d just been thinking how much cooler the Burger Joint would be if it had fries that looked…why, like these on this poster!

So I walked in to Joe’s Bestburger and ordered me some fries. And then I was happy to hear the woman behind me say, “I just want to try your fries!” See, I wasn’t the only sucker.

I’d heard vaguely of Joe’s Bestburger–I thought it was some new franchise. But I see now, with a little googling, that this one in Flushing is the only one. If I were going to open a fast-food hamburger joint, I wouldn’t immediately think of Main Street Flushing, but maybe that’s why I’m broke.

Anyway, Joe’s has a sharp red-and-white color scheme and snazzy little LCD panels displaying the menu, and additional panels on the registers, so you can see your order being rung up. This reminded me of Fatburger, in LA, which has the same thing. (Hmm, I’ve become quite the burger connoisseur in the past few months. I hope that mad-cow thing is a hoax.)

But Fatburger’s register screens don’t talk. After I’d placed my order–fries, oh, and a cheeseburger and a soda, since I was there, you know?–the cashier guy said, “That’ll be $4.28.”

And then the register said, in this bad robotic girl-voice, “You got a DEAL! Add a real ice-cream shake for a total of five dollars! Do you want to take this DEAL?!”

During all this, the cashier had to pause awkwardly, with a look on his face like, “Yes, my job of upselling has been outsourced to a computer. When will the war against the robots begin?” I opted out of the deal. But another 72 cents for a shake that normally sells for $2 is kind of genius.

Another genius/insidious pricing thing is that water costs $1.25, and soda, with free refills, costs $1. That one I fell for, and I drank a good cup and a half of root beer, thank you very sugared-up much.

While I was waiting for my order, some little old man in a cap and a Members Only jacket bellied up to the pick-up counter and started berating the woman there (who, incidentally, was one of the most cheerful, normal-looking people I’ve ever seen working at a fast-food joint–does Joe’s BB offer good health-care plans?). All I heard was that this place was dirty, dirty, and something about how the fries shouldn’t be like that. I think he was objecting to the peels still being on, which made me want to knock him upside the head. The cheerful woman just smiled and said the health department had given them the highest rating of any resto on Main Street. I wanted to give her the thumbs-up, but I refrained.

So I sat down and ate my burger and my fries and my big cup of root beer. The fries were perfectly crispy and looked remarkably like those on the poster. They were served in a little styrofoam cup, with a little wood fork on the side, all Euro-stylie. Another poster on the wall alerted me to the “gourmet” toppings I could’ve had. There was garlic mayo, I think, but I’d just gone for the all-you-can-pump ketchup, in those nice wide and flat paper cups, which are much better for dipping than those little narrow ones that you get at Wendy’s.

And my burger was goo-ood, especially for the bargain price of $1.95. Joe’s BB touts its freshness, and while it’s no In-n-Out Burger, because the tomatoes still probably had to travel hundreds of miles to get sliced up in Flushing, it was pretty tasty. There was some magic sauce. Oh, and I had the choice of raw onions or grilled onions. I chose grilled, and they were super-caramelized.

The burger was even a wee bit pink in the middle, which you pretty much never get at a fast-food setup. It wasn’t pink enough to make me worry, though. See, secretly, I’m always a little relieved when they don’t ask how I want my burger cooked, because if they do ask, then I’m obliged to say, “Medium rare, please,” even though I know that I’m flirting with death, or at least my brain dissolving into nothing. Because I can’t choose to eat overcooked meat.

But if they don’t ask, and then the burger is still a tiny bit pink, I think that’s a pretty good compromise. I’ll probably still feel the prions creepin’ in in a few years, but oh well. They were good, burger-rich years.

One other good-or-maybe-creepy thing about the place was all the flat-panel TVs. The sound was turned off, fortunately, and they were evenly split between CNN and the Food Network. Plenty of inspiration to muse on the future of food in America, while I sat there eating more fries than I wanted and drinking more root beer than was good for me.

Anyway, I know I’m part of the problem, not the solution, when I say this, but for the whopping price of $4.28, Joe’s Bestburger was pretty freakin’ good. I mean, I don’t think I’d tell anyone to go all the way to Flushing for it, but if you happen to be there, and for some reason don’t want some Sichuan duck… Oh, what an idiot I am.

Warn a Brotha: in the grocery store

And by “brotha,” I of course mean a fellow food lover. THIS is what everyone should be warned about:

This vile new product, this thing they call the “Grapple” (that’s “GRAPE-ul”–see the diacritic mark?)–I saw it in the grocery store and was purely horrified. But did I share my knowledge with my friends and loved ones? No, I kept my lip zipped. And so you see the results.

The GRAPE-ul wound up in my own house, in my own trash can, after three separate people’s taste buds had been violated.

A Grapple, see, is a grape-flavored apple. The first time I laid eyes on it, I was drawn to its shiny individual-apple-shaped packaging and its placement in the organic section of the grocery store. Of course I was thinking how reprehensible it was that plastic packaging was considered organic, so I stomped over to snort in disgust within the packaged-apple’s hearing range. Halfway there, though, I started to feel a small welling up of hope–perhaps this was some exciting new apple? Some insanely delicious thing that would make me forget all about the packaging and just be utterly delighted in modern farming miracles?

Well, I got up close, I saw it was a GRAPE-ul, and then I read the very, very fine print: ARTIFICAL GRAPE FLAVORING.

What?!

I snorted very audibly, tossed the box back down, leaving it all askew on the tidy organic-stuff shelf. That was the only warning I left to others, however.

Last night, I sent Peter out for some last-minute grocery shopping. He came back with fish and shrimp and shallots…and a box of “Hey, these looked cool–look at their funny packaging! What do you think they are? Some cool hybrid fruit?”

The invasion was complete. I even took a bite out of one. So did Susannah. So that was three bites out of three separate apples, plus one untouched, so we didn’t feel quite so wasteful about throwing them all in the trash, I guess.

They tasted exactly like grape popsicles. The whole kitchen smelled like “grape,” and made me think of past summers of grape Flav-R-ice, and how my throat would itch when I ate them too quickly. That can’t be good for you.

I am consciously sounding like Mayor Bloomberg when I say, “People, what’s wrong with just plain apples? They’re not that hard to eat. And they don’t taste bad either.”

And I sound just like me and the cranky guy on the corner when I say, “What is the world coming to?” But clearly that’s not a sharp enough warning.

Holy Jowl of God!

Last week, more than ten pounds of pig arrived on our doorstep, shipped from the kind people at Heritage Foods. This is a very honorable organization or charming farmers, whom Tamara is going to run off and marry a couple of, because their meat is so tasty. They’re the ones who made heirloom turkeys hip–they even put webcams in their pens before Thanksgiving, so you could be assured they were living a beautiful life before they got the axe.

My pig meat is not just any pig part: It’s guanciale, or cured pork jowl. Pig cheeks. There were three of them in the package, which is a little unsettling somehow. I gave the biggest one to Tamara for her birthday, and the other two have been lurking in the bottom of the fridge since they arrived.

I ordered this jowl because I’ve been looking for a good pork experience ever since 2003, when I smuggled some pancetta back from Italy (concealed in dirty underwear in my luggage) and it was the porkiest pork I’d ever had. I didn’t really think about what I’d do with ten pounds of jowl, except maybe make some bucatini all’amatriciana, which is a nice little tomato sauce with onions and jowl bits.

Yesterday Peter broke the seal, in service of a hot-and-sour soup, with not-so-thrilling results–but he hadn’t cut off the rind. “That stuff is really fatty,” he said. Which isn’t something he typically complains about.

Indeed, when I cut another wedge off the jowl tonight, I saw that it was all fat with wee pink streaks. Not a bad thing–it just requires careful slicing and browning. So I cut my little jowl wedge into long, skinny bits, alternating stripes of pink and white. I tossed them in a pan to let them brown up slowly and render a little. A sort of carbonara was the plan.

That was going fine, but then as I was lifting the bits out one by one, I saw something I wished I hadn’t:

At one point in my slicing, I had noticed a small black vein of something just under the surface–probably some spices, I thought. No–in fact, it was hair. Boar bristles, really. I tried to look away, but that stubbly black bit was already imprinted on my one working retina.

So I turned to my little pea shoots that I’d picked up in Chinatown the other day. Benign vegetables. Hairless. But as I was scooping them up from the steamer and putting them on a plate, I noticed a smushy little gray thing on the tong. Looking exactly like what a waterlogged worm would look like. Now two nasty images in my retina.

Damn. My dinner was objectively delicious–all salty and peppery, with tender fresh pasta, and with the sweet buttery pea shoots mellowing it all out… But just as I would start to savor a bite, getting a little excited about the winey flavor in the onions HAIR would pop into my head, then WORM, then HAIR HAIR HAIR WORM. HAIRWORM. HAIR. By the end I was just choking it down. HAIR.

Please, oh please let the next wedge of guanciale be bristle-free.

It’s Here!


Yeah, baby. Moon Handbooks Santa Fe, Taos & Albuquerque is in my hot little hands, and it can be in yours too. Well, by the end of the month, anyway: the official release date is March 28.

So far, I have not flipped open to a random page and cringed in embarrassment, which is about the best post-book-writing sensation one can have. I know this doesn’t sound positive, but when you spend six months slaving over something, it’s hard to look at it again without have a little PTSD.

And a few of the photos I took turned out well too–at least none of them were obviously taken from a moving car, which is an improvement from a few other guidebooks I’ve seen. I feel a wee bit proud.

The best part for potential buyers of this book: I will be going back to New Mexico soon to research a whole-state guidebook, and I’ll set up a blog to post any updates to the Santa Fe book–so you’ll always have hot-off-the-presses info.

Au Revoir, Cook’s Illustrated

So Peter rearranged the kitchen with nifty new Metro shelving, and in the process made me acutely conscious of how many issues of Cook’s Illustrated I’ve got piled up. They seem sort of redundant now, because I bought access to the recipe database on the Cook’s website, and I can’t remember when I last sat down and browsed through them for ideas. In fact, I don’t think I’ve even read the last few issues.

Which is no way to treat what I used to call my Favorite. Food Mag. Ever. It’s the magazine that essentially taught me how to cook. Sure, it has its problems (scroll to “Cook’s Illustrated in the Flesh”), but I owe this publication a lot: my lemon pound cake is fluffy and lemony-tasting, I can whip up crepes in a jiffy, and I know which canned tomatoes are worth buying (Muir Glen, FYI).

Looking through my back issues, I realize I’ve been subscribing for ten years. That makes me more than a little nostalgic. Especially when I see my favorite issue, the one that has come in the handiest over the years and is totally warped from countertop puddles and stained on every page. It’s from April 1997.

Its secrets include key lime pie, chicken and dumplings, soda bread, braised lamb shoulder chops, electric knife sharpener reviews, canned tomato tastings. All of these things are essential to my repertoire. I made the corned beef recipe once, and it was awesome. I still haven’t made the buttermilk doughnuts, which kills me, and now I see there’s a recipe for braised celery. April 1997–it’s the gift that keeps on giving!

Indulge me while I get a little misty-eyed…

In April 1997, I was living in Bloomington, Indiana, in a giant old house with three other people. Bloomington was a creepy oasis of semi-culture in the black hole of redneck Indiana, but that house was a fantastic place to live. Each of us cooked two nights a week, so a good part of my grad school life was spent sitting around with cookbooks figuring out what was within my grasp, involved ingredients that I could get at Kroger or the Sahara Mart, and wouldn’t bankrupt the house kitty.

My roommate Jeremy was once heard to shout from behind the swinging kitchen door, “Hey, do you know where we can get whole baby goat in this town?” Jen made some casserole involving an upside-down frozen pizza, as well as an exploding-heart Valentine’s cake. James simmered huge vats of red sauce and sausage. When I wasn’t doing classics from the ol’ Cook’s, it was something Indian from Madhur Jaffrey–the only cookbook I have that’s as stained as this April 1997 issue of Cook’s.

Enough of memory lane, but Cook’s was a lot better then. The recipes were things I wanted to cook. They seem to have painted themselves into a corner these days, as they’ve burned through all the good classic dishes, and nowadays we get stories on turkey tetrazzini. Christopher Kimball himself said they’d never do a story on fresh pasta, for instance, because it was too fancy, and the new companion magazine, Cook’s Country, reveals the editors’ real–and really nasty–predilections: for marshmallows in everything, against heirloom tomatoes, for even more wasteful uses of Saran wrap. If I’d known where this enterprise was headed, I would’ve quit in April 1997.

So I’m chucking my subscription. I think I’ve graduated–and it’s satisfying to look through this giant stack of magazines and see how much I’ve learned. Frankly, I retained more information from Cook’s, especially about the magical world of egg proteins, than I ever did from any class about medieval Arabic poetry. Hell, yesterday I couldn’t even remember the name of the Abbasid poet who’s a lot like David Allan Coe, and I spent a lot of time working up that hard-hitting analysis.

Sure, I haven’t had the definitive, literal kung fu battle with my master, Christopher Kimball, that would prove I’m ready to make it on my own in the world. But I feel like I could kick his ass.

So that’s what that is… or, A Visit to Minangasli

Since I’ve been back in NYC, I’ve had a relatively low workload and a fresh appreciation of all the nifty things to do here. So when I got really, really hungry the other night, I suggested to Peter that we go try Minangasli, an Indonesian restaurant in Elmhurst that’s gotten a lot of coverage in the New York Times recently (also a proper review here).

Having grown up on gado-gado (I’m not sure why–was it a stylish vegetarian thing in the 70s?), then come of age in Amsterdam, where Indonesian food appears in automat windows, I have some exposure to the cuisine, but hardly an understanding or true appreciation of it. But a few years ago I read a Saveur article about one island that made me drool, and the review of Minangasli made it sound overwhelmingly good, even if you didn’t order the beef brains, so I was excited to try it.

And it was good. Don’t get me wrong. But it did not make my face glow and my veins rush with a feeling of heartbreaking joy, like I get when I eat at Sripraphai or Spicy Mina. And it wasn’t like the food wasn’t spicy hot–the deep-fried kingfish we had was covered in a great sweet-spicy sambal, and the beef renddang was really rich. It was all tasty, and I also got a sweet avocado shake. And lamb satay.

Oh, and we ate a lot of green jackfruit. It was kind of artichoke-y, and slightly fleshy, even a bit pink on the inside. Jackfruit is something I can now remove from the long list of tropical goodies in my head: in one column, there are names like soursop and custard apple and alligator pear, and in the other are pictures, like green bumpy things and brown smooth things and things the size of footballs, and I’m slowly sorting out how things match up by process of elimination. (But if we put in a third column about how things taste, I’m back at square one.)

Anyway, I hate to resort to the very word I make a halftime freelance career of striking out, but the spices at Minangasli just didn’t “pop.” (For those who don’t read women’s magazines, this term is usually applied to body parts: “Coloring in the inner lash line really makes the eyes pop.” Which is a ghastly thought, which is why I always underline it and write “Really?!” in the margin when I’m copy editing. To no avail.) At Spicy Mina, you can almost discern every flavor as it travels across your tongue, even if it happens too fast for you to consciously register “Cardamom, cumin, cinnamon, clove, coriander…” There’s that sensation, and there’s also the pure heat. I think it takes the combo of the two to get the awesome endorphin rush. At Sripraphai, it’s the killer one-two-three punch (is that possible?) of fish sauce, lime and incredibly hot chili.

In Minangasli’s favor, the staff is exceedingly friendly. The prices are fabulously low. Its location in Elmhurst is lively and convenient (another reason to ride the V). The waitress (owner?) wears a cute little green apron that has “Minangasli” Bedazzled on it in orange rhinestones. Now that pops.

But I’m a junkie, and I need stronger stuff, I’m afraid.

Astoria Real Estate Reality Check

Perusing the Craigslist residential listings, and I found this deeply flawed ad:

Large 1 Family House Located In The Heart Of Astoria Queens 14-14 30th Road [if by “heart” you mean “near the projects and away from the train”]. **House was recently used by Warner Brothers to film “The Bedford Diaries” – a brand new TV series.** [Like I care.]… Only 10mins to Manhattan. [By boat?] Various schools, library, shopping at Steinway Street, large Astoria park/pool & “strip” all within walking distance.[Steinway is walking distance only for the very fit with lots of time on their hands.] 6-Bedrooms, 2-1/2 Bathrooms, Large Dining Room & Living Room With FirePlace, 9 Foot Ceilings, Pocket Doors, Parkay Floors…

PARKAY floors! I’m dying. Peter wants me to call and ask what the air-conditioning bill is in the summer. I’m thinking I’ll invest in some dedicated around-the-house socks. The more I think about it, the more it seems like a genius art installation.

The coming Thai revolution

I’m reading a story on food trends in that little Life newspaper insert, and there’s this quote:

“On a mission to rule the global foodscape, the Thai government has been exporting chefs and heavily promoting its cuisine. The result: more than 3,000 Thai restaurants across the States, an increase of about 120 percent since 2003.”

Huh. Does that directly account for all the places on 30th Ave, and the one on Ditmars? Do Thais get subsidies to open restaurants?

Very cursory research reveals that the Thai government isn’t focusing just on the US: Saudi Arabia might like Thai food too.

And here’s a story in the Bangkok Post that explains the whole “Kitchen of the World” program–which does include subsidies for restaurant owners! Cheesy name, but great news. When I can get fresh kaffir lime leaves in Astoria, I know they will have succeeded.