Author: zora

For the record

Raw-milk cheese has been cleared of all charges. The bug in my system is just some mild-mannered streptococcus viridans. Please, do not harm any sheep or goats in my name.

Anyway, I’m home from the hospital. By the end, it felt like Peter and I were doing a prison break. I feel really bad for anyone who’s in the hospital and doesn’t have information, connections, or other resources. It’s really scary how beaten down and freaked out you can get in just a few days. (But maybe I’m just more sensitive because I really, really enjoy eating and sleeping?) I wouldn’t last a second under real interrogation conditions. In fact, I had a story about my involvement in a sleeper cell to trot out in case anyone from the NSA or FBI woke me up in the middle of the night to ask me some questions.

So I’m home and doing a lot of deep breathing. I have an appointment with a less terrorizing doctor on Monday. Thanks again to everyone who called and emailed and sent flowers and other goodies! It helped immensely, and made me popular with the nurses when I shared my cookies.

Reality Check

Joey in Astoria had this to say in a rundown of Queens-y blogs:

Roving Gastronome is sort of random in my opinion, but claims Astorianess.

Of course I got all huffy for about 3 seconds, and then I realized: Coverage of my toilet-lid exploits is random. And I haven’t mentioned Astoria specifically in I can’t remember how long.

So here it is again, lest we forget: I fucking love Astoria!

And I promise to get a bit more focused narrative going in future posts. Can I blame the current random tone on the bacteria coursing through my veins?

Omigod, which reminds me: Remember my fear of gout, and its possible ending my decadent gourment lifestyle? Well, that’s not what I have. It’s worse. (Or I think it is–still waiting on blood tests to confirm.)

I think I’m sick because I ate raw-milk cheese. How completely unfair. I mean, I adore little goats–they’re absolutely lovely, with their floppy ears and little noses. How can they make me sick?

And even more outrageous, how can the US government be right?! Of course the USDA is crazy to ban young cheeses made from unpasteurized milk. Of course those people who smuggle stinky fromage back in their socks are heroes. I mean, Max McCalman himself said he feeds raw-milk cheese to his daughter. (But maybe that’s part of the reason he’s divorced. Still, I admired him when I heard him say that.)

Other than eating some funky goat cheese in Greece and Turkey, I can’t remember a single thing I did this summer that would’ve exposed me to heart-infection-causing bacteria. Unless…that night in Sofia…it’s sort of a blur…we had that whole bottle of pear brandy…I suppose I could’ve blacked out the part where I was frolicking in the post-Soviet fields with pregnant livestock (that’s the other risk factor).

That’s the news, kids. I swear I’ll be more coherent once the meds kick in. Long live Astoria!

Hungry Planet

This is, as Lil’ Kim might say, a fas-kinating book: Portraits of families all around the world photographed with all the food they eat in a week. At the moment, the pic I like most is of the Madsen family of Greenland, with their full array of usual prepackaged semi-junk foods…and a small brace of arctic geese (not yet cleaned) flopped in the middle of the table. They look pleased as punch, and one of the kids says her favorite food is narwhal skin. Rock on, Greenlandic kid! Oh, except I guess I should sound disapproving of eating whales.

This is the second project by the same photographer (and his writer wife). The first one was Material World, which is pics of people with all their physical belongings in front of their house. Meaning, all their furniture, appliances, etc. Everybody, everywhere has a TV. (Just like everyone, everywhere eats a surprising amount of packaged food–except in Bhutan and Darfur.)

The logistical work of these two projects is kind of boggling. Peter and I (well, I) have talked about doing the food photo, just to see, but we get bogged down in technicalities. We did at least to agree to have the designated week not include a lamb roast. Though that would show those Greenlanders a thing or two about fresh carcasses.

Mrs. Dalloway for a Day!

Enterprising young Tamara–here’s her recent Craigslist posting:

Are you planning a party in your home but need a little help with the cooking, plating, presentation, hosting and cleanup? I am your Mrs. Dalloway… without the suicide!

I can help you plan, shop, cook, plate, serve, strategize, host, and/or clean up, so you can enjoy your party. I can be as hands on or off as you wish, depending on your level of comfort. I can also take over the dinner/party entirely if you would like, and cook and/or serve the whole thing for you. (and you can feel free to pass it off as your own genius if you please).

I have excellent references and culinary/cocktail knowledge. Feel free to contact me for further information. Rates are negotiable depending on how much help you need.

Email me if you’re in the NYC area and need her oh-so-capable services, or follow the link for her email address.

Lamb Roast IV: The Grisly Denouement

Tamara writes:

Yesterday I got up, smelled the lamb fat, brewed some coffee, and sat down with a cup to drink while staring at the computer screen. I went to see what was in the plastic bag next to the computer….. (food someone had forgotten, perhaps?) and discovered….

The head. Smiling at me with its blind little milky eyes.

Ooh. Dear me.

Adieu, Fulton Fish!

I just noticed that DJP also has a nice stash of old Fulton Fish Market. The Astoria crew made its own pilgrimage a while back; Peter of course took photos (scroll down to “Fulton Fish…”).

Back in April, when we went, it seemed like the fish market was poised to close at any moment. Fortunately, it wasn’t like when Siberia, the best bar ever, the bar in the subway station, was “about to close” for more than six months, and I went there way too often and got way too drunk, and even locked in the place one night, and a bruise on my back from making out on the pinball game, and generally too horrified with myself to set foot in the new place on 9th Ave for a long, long, long time.

I mean, I’m really glad we saw the FFM when we did, representing the almost-end of an era, but you didn’t see me there every week after, ogling the giant tuna and cadging clams from guys in yellow rubber overalls, all nicknamed “the Hook.”

The fish market has officially moved up to the Bronx now, I think only back in October, leaving a bunch of cranky tough-guy sound bites in its wake (e.g., “Aw, who needs refrigeration? I’ll miss the old place!” says Vinnie “the Hook” Lambrusco). Guess it’s time for a visit, and a compare-contrast blog entry. But damn, you have to wake up so early…

Lamb Roast IV: Beyond Jaded

And, oh yeah, after all the typical gluttony of Thanksgiving, we roasted a lamb. This was Sunday, which had allowed a couple of days for digestion, but I still was not all that hungry. Adding to the dilemma was the lavish spread of pot-luck goodies from all over, including some “Nigerian Magic” and some extremely tasty Turkish stuffed grape leaves (the lamb roast was for Peter’s foreign students).

And as I gripe over on Peter’s blog, the lamb didn’t really get seared on the outside, so even when it came off the spit, it wasn’t very appetizing (to me, anyway). I’m sure it was delicious. (Heresy! I don’t think I’ve eaten any of the lamb yet. Well, I ate some of the saffron-pomegranate-molasses-preserved-lemon-stewed shanks. That was wicked good.) But you can picture me, looking a little blase, yawning, in fact, as 50 pounds of lamb are toted into the kitchen on a spit, and Karvin’ Karl is sharpening his knives.

I did find it in my heart/gut to eat quite a lot of these “magic bars,” which didn’t have hash in them, but were filled with sugar, as well as coconut. (Tamara called them Congo bars, which when she says it, sounds very un-PC, somehow.)

But enough of my bad attitude: here are pictures from Peter, and from pumpkin-soup-making, camera-phone-having DJ Prince (who has also managed to capture some of Tamara’s most iconic decorating choices–good eye).

Just like old times…

We need a new bolt for a toilet seat. In the meantime, it makes me a little nostalgic. “Peter, our bathroom reminds me of our trip to Mexico!” I said just moments ago.

“Or Greece,” he said. “Or anywhere. Really, does any good travel place have toilet seats?”

Good point.

Goal-Oriented

This is something I have only rarely been. Other than getting out of New Mexico by securing admission in one of our nation’s more respectable universities, and then escaping from dysfunctional grad school in back-of-nowhere Indiana by moving to NYC, my get-up-and-go has been napping in a sunny corner.

Which isn’t terrible. Especially in New York, where everyone’s very ambitious. Just being around some of these people can be exhausting. “How do you pay your rent?” people wonder. Easy: I know how to cook for myself and never order takeout. “What are you doing for work?” they inquire. Oh, this and that. And, most abstractly, someone once asked me, “What are you?”

Because I’m not an artist. I’m not in a rock band. I’m not a writer, even though I get paid to write travel guides. I’m not a journalist, out to break a huge story. It’s quite clear I am not an Arabic linguist. I’m not, like almost everyone else I know in New York, harboring some desperate, burning dream that really makes me who I am even as I labor in soul-sucking anonymity.

I’m not saying my way is the right way, although I have on occasion felt pretty smug about my outlook. I suppose you could call the attitude neo-slacker, but I prefer to reference Hemingway’s journalist character in The Sun Also Rises, who on principle never appears to be working. In fact, though, this not-appearing-to-be-working thing has backfired a bit recently, and I did get an ulcer a couple of years ago, in part due to employment uncertainty. But overall, I do seem to get a bit more daily pleasure than a lot of people I know, and I haven’t had a what-am-I-doing-with-my-life crisis in quite a few years.

But why am I talking about this, and what does it have to do with food? It’s because I just read Julie & Julia: 365 Days, 524 Recipes, 1 Tiny Apartment Kitchen, by Julie Powell. This is a fucking fantastic book, based on Powell’s hilarious blog, in which she did cook every recipe in Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking. I read the blog a few times during the course of the year, and admired Powell’s excellent use of obscenity. But she really pulls it together nicely in the book, with a great sense of narrative (involving the love lives of her friends, as well as her cooking travails) and some wonderful meditations on feeding people, terrible Republicans, and the delicious obscenity of marrow bones.

It’s one thing when someone makes it big, and it turns out they’re a bit wealthy and well connected, or they have some exotic background that happens to gibe with today’s cultural obsession, or their life was transformed by some harrowing experience on a very tall mountain. But when someone who’s been coooking insane things and writing a blog and living in Queens gets a very juicy book deal, well… You (I) can’t help but feel like I should’ve had more of a plan. Because I didn’t think the world was interested in people living in Queens, and now it turns out they are–but maybe they have only enough interest to support one Queens-dweller, and that slot’s been taken.

The genius of Julie Powell’s blog is that she had a goal. An insane and edifying one that hooked foodies like soap operas hook listless stay-at-home moms. This goal-achieving blog concept seems to have spread too: Twenty a Day, for instance, aspires to eat at a set list of cheap restaurants. And there was that guy who documented every single thing he ate for a year…I think he made a book out of that.

These are clever ideas, and I know I should get one in a similar vein (but not too similar–I can’t very well cook my way through Diana Kennedy anymore, now can I?). I would feel accomplished and purpose-driven. But. But. But. I like not having a plan, to some degree. I like seeing what turns up. Which might just be a cheap excuse for not wanting to give up my comfy Cape of Slack in which I drape myself daily.

But that reminds me of another thing to whine about: According to numerous newspaper stories (one in the NYT, most recently) everyone in New York is on drugs. Which essentially I have no objection to, but they’re using them to work! Prescription-grade speed, a little coke, Xanax to chill out–how am I supposed to compete with this kind of white-collar doping? I’m going to drink my glass of whine–ha, purely an accident–I mean wine and mull it over. If anyone has any suggestions for fabulous feats to be accomplished on this blog, please let me know. I’ll reply to your email in a very leisurely fashion.